Ofolanga Island in the
Hapa'ai Island Group in Tonga
We left the Vava'u Group of Islands heading south the day after
our wonderful and successful whale watching tour (on Oct. 24th). Hope
was with us and I had warned her that we had such a wonderful experience
in Vava'u that she should NOT expect such wonderful things in the Hapa'ai. Well, I was wrong. Her whole trip was enchanted!
 We
did a long day trip to the uninhabited island of Ofolanga. This island
provides minimal protection, but sufficient for us. That evening we had
some whales come to visit (left). They hung around for quite a while.
And did a few neat displays (right).
 The
next day we decided to go shore and walk around. (left) The water was
quite beautiful. BUT the surf was a problem when returning to the Quest.
(right)
 When
I saw the surf I decided to put my camera in a plastic bag - GOOD IDEA!
We did not flip the dinghy, but we certainly took on plenty of water and
maybe we even learned a little about exiting through the surf.
 In
any case, one of the things we observed along the shore while we were
there were these floating things. It's not what you think!! (left) These
are pieces of pumice that were thrown from a volcano between here and
Fiji.
Yachties were advised to be on the lookout for large chunks of
pumice that had the capacity to damage boats in transit. People delayed
their trip to Fiji to avoid hitting large chunks in the night. Glad that
we didn't plan to go to Fiji this year!
 On
a more mundane (but visually more interesting) were the many hermit
crabs that live in Ofolanga Island. I thought this guy was pretty cute!
(right)
 One
of the rituals we try to observe on the Quest is to serve dinner around
or before sunset each day. We enjoyed this view on our last night on
Ofolanga. (left)
Ha'ano Island in the Hapa'ai
Island Group of Tonga
 Perhaps
this view says it all! There are NO vehicles on Ha'ano - and with all
the trouble other remote islands have in procuring fuel I think these
folks have figured it out. They use horses for transportation, both
riding and pulling carts. They do a pretty good job of mowing the lawn
as well.
 This
is a rural economy and just as we've seen throughout Tonga and pigs run
free and people fence their yards to keep them out.
 Don't
ask me why city folks have this fascination with farm animals, but here
we see a rooster!!! (left) And in the anchorage we hear them day and
night. They bother Scott a lot! I barely hear them - go figure!
 On
the right is the "road" from the dinghy dock. You see the coral fence on
the left to keep animals out.
 The
photo on the left is a view looking to the right of the "road." You see
the local fishing boats moored off the shore and a couple of cruising
yachts (including the Quest) behind the curve of the bay in the
distance. With all the reefs it isn't safe to come closer to the dinghy
dock.
 There
are some pretty good reef markers in places, but even in bright sunlight
we need lots of room to maneuver with the big boat. We actually did nick
a reef on one of our trips to shore! These markers are good for the
local boats.
 Here's
Scott tying up the little boat. This wonderful wharf was new just a few
years ago and within three years a large earthquake (over 8 on the
Richter Scale) occurred off the coast and severely damaged the dock. The
dock was built by the Australians.
 The
water project on the right was funded by the Japanese. We were told that
these "gifts" to Tonga result in a UN vote that allows whaling by the
Japanese - interesting!!!
 While
we were ashore we were struck by the number of churches. For an village
of less than 300 people we were told that there were four churches.
 Here's
a lady (right) cleaning/raking the church yard of animal droppings and
leaves and debris. We were there on Saturday.
 We
were invited to attend a feast before Church by a group of Methodists.
Seated here are the elders and smaller children. Later the young and
middle-aged adults will eat.
 During
the meal the elders would speak. We befriended this gentleman and he
helped introduce us to friends in another town. He is the local
agriculture minister and elder in the Weslyan/Methodist Church.
 Though
these islands are known for their male dominance the women did speak! We
noticed a lot of humor and laughing in this group - much less serious
that we observed in the Cooks. There was a lot of joking and laughter
going on around the table!
 I
normally try to take my cues from what's happening around me. I noticed
that when we arrived that the men were sitting and talking inside around
a kava bowl. The minister is sitting to Scott's left. She was part of
the kava gathering. The women were outside and organizing the dinner.
Hope and I opted to stay outside with the ladies. The only problem with
that choice is that often the women are not English speakers. The
exception is the school teachers who are usually pretty good at speaking English
and are most often women.
Pangai Village on Lifuka
Island in the Hapa'ai Island Group of Tonga
 We
came ashore to the village of Pangai bring our dinghy into this little
harbor. You can barely see the Quest anchored outside. We could have
brought her in, but when we arrived it was getting dark and we didn't
feel safe coming in closer. We were met by this official and we checked
in right here at the dock.
 We
walked around town and since it was the middle of the day (and HOT) most
people were NOT out and about. These girls have just come from school.
 We
got in touch with our friend (the Agriculture Minister) and he was able
to help us get our Bibles out to a nearby school. Nearby, but too far
for us to walk - and not get lost! Here's Hope in our transportation
vehicle, for which we were grateful. Scott stayed in town because he had
injured his foot (another story!).
 We
got out to the school and here's a picture of some of the younger kids.
You notice construction across the yard. The earthquake destroyed a lot
of structures on the island.
'Uiha Island in the Hapa'ai
Island Group of Tonga
 As
we came across the reef and into the bay of 'Uiha Island our depth meter
registered 11 feet of water - that's 3 1/2 feet of water under the keel,
enough to make the admiral blanch! However, because there are so few
visitors it was quite fun to visit here. This was our last inhabited
island in the Ha'apai group. (left) This page is starting to draw to a
close!
 One
of the main things we noticed on 'Uiha is the large trees. (right) I
doubt if there's fuel for this vehicle. We noticed that the people ride
bicycles and horses - oh yes, and walk!
 There
were very few people out and about. We did meet the school teacher (on
her lunch hour) and she helped us connect with the Church so we could
find a proper home for some of our few remaining Bibles. We were told
that everyone's "out in the bush," meaning working in the plantations -
including the pastor himself who is obviously a tentmaker pastor. On
the left is a shot of Hope and the teacher trekking down to the dinghy
to get the Bibles. Scott has to keep from overusing his injured foot.
 Here's
the Pastor's daughter in the Church. The Churches are really impressive.
We've seen this throughout the islands.
 Here's
one man we did meet along the road. Scott and Hope are speaking with
him. He's boiling down the tree bark to make tapa. You see the Church
tower in the background.
Kelefesia Island in the
Hapa'ai Island Group of Tonga
 Kelefesia is an uninhabited island in the southern
Hapa'ais. It's approach is tricky as you'll see from my photo (right). This
is a shot coming into the anchorage. These rollers don't tend to add to
your peace of mind. In fact, they have a good deal of pucker power in
them!
 We
got anchored and this was the view off our stern. Was it any wonder that
we didn't go ashore that evening? Just a little dragging would have put
us dangerously close to that reef!!
 Here's
the view off the bow (right). It is a pretty neat island! And we're in
far enough to have a pretty calm anchorage. I think we could have gone
in further.
 As
the sun set we had another wonderful evening in the Hapa'ais - our last
before leaving for Tongatapu. |
