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I thought the enthusiasm and skill of these local
dancers really said a lot about the pride that the Samoans have in their
culture and independence.
One
of the interesting phenomena in Samoa is an entrenched competition among
the villages of the islands. Instead of the historic violence and
cannibalism the villages now compete in athletics, choral competition,
dancing and there is even an award for the most beautiful village.
Though this is the number two village, we thought it was the most
beautiful and we show you here all the coleus and other individual
plants that surrounded these peoples' homes.
If
you fly into Samoa (as most people do) you will see several beautiful
works at the airport by the Samoan School of Fine Arts. There are
several wooden sculptures as well as a glass mosaic of Samoan life.
After
visiting the airport we visited the school (left) and were astounded by
the number and quality of the wood sculptures. Some of these seem to be
finished and others are in progress. Since the islanders are known for
their wood working I guess I shouldn't be surprised, but I must say that
we haven't seen as many beautiful pieces anywhere in the other Pacific
Islands.
There
were a couple of dozen finished projects just standing around, so to
speak. One was this horse (right) with palm baskets filled with
breadfruit. Others were: an outrigger canoe, a decorative bird, a whale
and numerous carved columns depicting animals, birds, geckos,
vines and flowers. I was told that the horse was carved from one
piece of wood.
This
mosaic is smaller than the one at the airport, but easier to photograph,
so I've included it here. You can see that I was quite taken by the
school of Fine Arts.
As
we continued around the island we came to a turtle preserve (right).
There is some attempt to raise these leatherback turtles until they
could be released and survive in the wild.
I'm
a real fan or turtles, and since we've seen so much disregard for their
survival on islands to the east we were happy to see some effort to
preserve these.
The
next day we went to the fresh produce market which is just about like
every other market through the islands (where the soil can support
crops.
You typically see the women preparing their wares (left).
AND,
the guys playing checkers (right)...
AND
drinking kava (a local mild narcotic drink). (left) Most westerners
don't develop a taste for this habit, so it's hard to say what it
actually does for a person. We were told that about two bowls, or
servings was enough.
Now,
having said that, I have to give this guy credit for arranging these
beautiful floral bouquets. These wonderful displays were seen all around
the hotels and restaurants and were greatly appreciated by the likes of
me.
These
handmade mats are used for many things, mainly to sit on in the fales or
as room dividers. Here you also see the kava bowl again. It's not common
to see a European in this setting.
This
is the main street in Apia - right next to the yacht and ship harbor.
Every morning the Police Band parades down (and up) the street to raise
the flag. If you get up at a decent hour (which is seldom on the Quest)
you get to witness this. You also see every one else trying to go to
work and a big traffic jamb caused by the parade. We didn't ride the
buses so much here as we did in Pago Pago. Rather, the Taxis were
reliable and cheap and kept a nice attitude if you just wanted to go a
short distance or you were carrying packages.
The
Police Band marches up the street - AND BACK!
Later
on as we walked back to the boat along the parkway I sat down to rest.
You notice that it's very common for a person to carry an umbrella to
shield themselves from the sun.
If you get up early enough you also see people sweeping the streets
using the traditional broom and wearing the lavalava.
You
actually get quite used to seeing people wearing the lavalava. Here are
two policemen, one in slacks and one in a lavalava. Notice these big
trees that line the harbor's edge. All along the harbor is a retaining
wall and park with colorful shrubs and these large trees.
All
the schoolchildren wear uniforms. And, because most of the boys wear
lavalavas the girls and boys' uniforms appear much the same.
Here's
a sample of the local cricket team in their uniforms.
We
took several tours of the island of 'Upolu. It's hard to know where to
start. But, I guess everything starts and finishes with the sea when
contemplating an island community. On the left is a small fale that
could be used if you decided to take the kids to the beach and want to
relax as you watch them. Relaxing is the number one pastime here in the
islands.
As
we traveled around the island we saw many fales and structures in which
people live either part time or full time. This one on the right caught
our attention.
In
a more rural setting the structures look like this (left).
There
are fales along the beach that a visitor could rent by the day or week
like a hotel - it's a Samoan hotel!
These
fales on the left are used by the Piula Theological Seminary as a
classroom or place of meditation. The students in the fale on the left
are having their lunch and a little quiet time.
On
the right Libby and I cool off next to a nearby reflecting pool (Piula
Cave Pool). We were happy to have a little respite to cool down and
relax.
Back
at the main campus of the Seminary we find beautifully manicured lawns
and gardens. Notice the dive tank used as a church bell. We found this a
common use for dive tanks that are no longer serviceable.
One
of the projects of the seminary students is the refurbishment of the
historic Church on campus. It was a beautiful structure and well worth
the effort.
One
day we were driving around turned out to be a rainy day. There are
bridges in some areas and in others a ford is the most practical
approach.
This
was not the rainy season, but this year (August, 2006) there was plenty
of rain and the falls were beautiful.
One
of the byproducts of a verdant soil and ample rainfall is plenty of
grassland for raising beef. A pasture like this can be fenced in to keep
animals safe. It's interesting to see how easily certain plants grow.
The stakes used as fence posts often will grow into full sized trees.
Also, the big elephant eared plants you see in the foreground are taro.
This variety wants to grow anywhere!
People
aren't too concerned about their animals. You see that this cow has
three nicks in her right ear - this designates ownership.
Pigs
also roam around pretty freely. We saw this on many of the islands. We
spoke to an EPA agent in Pago Pago and were told that these pigs do
carry disease, so this free range attitude is not such a great idea.
What we saw in Tonga is that people had to fence their yards to keep the
pigs from eating their plants.
This
young man is mowing the yard for his family - using a machete.
Back
in town there are limited forms of industry. Fabric design and printing
is an area in which Samoans excel.
These
young men are learning wood carving as part of fabric printing. This
class is a rehab program. Many islanders struggle with addiction issues
that relate to the lack of industry on the islands.
Aggie
Grey's is an institution in Apia (left). It is a beautiful hotel that
caters to tourists and employs many islanders.
Many
of the staff also perform in the island review (right and at top).
Interestingly, the fire dance is native to Samoa, perhaps because of the
volcanic activity on the Samoan islands (especially Savai'i).
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