
When contemplating a visit to Singapore, the most significant issue is ship traffic. Here's how our electronic chart looked as we
approached Singapore. All the triangles are AIS ships. Smaller traffic
will be little radar dots. What you may see is that Scott planned our
approach from the southeast. We traveled south of the traffic separation
scheme (going west) and then crossed at a designated crossing, staying
very close to a small local freighter doing the same thing. As it was,
after crossing the eastbound and part of the westbound ships we
encountered westbound traffic. There is a smaller separation scheme on
the north of the major traffic to accommodate short hops along the coast
of Singapore Island. However, those ships don't necessarily stay
where we think they should be and they're just going against the grain,
so to speak. Well, we made it to the temporary immigration anchorage. We
were treated well by the officials and made it to our slip in Keppel Bay
Marina by 5:00. Happy Days!!
This
is the lobby at the Marina. It's new and gorgeous. We have electricity
and water on the dock. We haven't had potable water at a dock since New
Zealand. Of course we have rarely been on a dock in the last several
years! Perhaps that's why we're so happy to be here. Otherwise we like
to be out and about in the more remote areas. But in the land of pirates
and bullies we prefer to be in a safe place. We were told NOT to visit
any of the remote islands on the way here as the locals will treat you
badly and demand "presents." An Australian yacht we met in
Palau traveled through Indonesia and experienced their girls being spat
upon as well as being threatened by a group of 20 machete carrying men
on their boat with demands for baksheesh. Because of this we've planned
our trip to stay in friendly areas.
So, let's see more of Singapore.
Here's
another shot of the Marina at Keppel Bay and all the building that's
going on around the water. About 6 blocks from here is the largest mall
in Singapore, with everything from massage, hair and nail parlors to
retail shops and movie theatres. Also next to that location is the ferry
stop and MRT station for subway connections to other parts of the city.
We
went to Raffles Hotel for our obligatory Singapore Sling (a sweet,
unimpressive drink!). It is a beautiful complex and we enjoyed getting a
few souvenirs at their gift shop. The entire complex is stately and
traditional right down to the doorman! (right)

The
exterior of Raffles is renown (left)
The
Malays are mostly Muslim. A huge part of how they express themselves as
a religion relates to how the women dress. There are schools for girls
and you often see even little girls with their heads covered.

 
We walked around the city quite a bit. We were especially interested in
pockets of ethnicity and history. Here we are (left) figuring out which
way to go to find a new car/boat CD/DVD player.
Thought
you'd enjoy seeing the large high-rise apartments where most people
live. One thing you don't get here that we saw in Hong Kong is the large
areas of green that cover the steep hills around HK.
We
visited the RSYC (Republic of Singapore Yacht Club) and exchanged
burgees with them. There was an old worn-out burgee from DRYC on
display. We believe it came from Bruce Kessler's around the world trip
on his trawler yacht, Zopilote.
It
was very interesting to see large displays of their race sponsor, Corum
Watches. We saw the same thing at the RHKYC (Hong Kong) with their
sponsor, Rolex Watches. I don't understand why DRYC didn't do more
visual displays around our club, on our website and in international
yachting magazines with Corum (when they were sponsoring our
international race to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico). Let's hope that changes
with future sponsors.
As you see, we were warmly received at the RSYC and enjoyed a tour of
their facilities and a delicious lunch. I will say we were happy to be
at Kepple Bay Marina with Quest as the RSYC slips are near a noisy ferry
dock and ship construction yard. We also noticed a lot of surge in the
slips.
What I haven't shown you is our trip across the equator and back, on the
way to Singapore. I should start by explaining that a person that has
crossed the equator (mostly on their own boat or as crew) is now
considered a "shellback." This is opposed to a "slimy pollywog" who has
NOT crossed the equator. In researching this subject on the internet it
turns out that the Navy has some very elaborate ceremonies for becoming
a shellback. We tried our best on Quest and it turns out that Vivian and
Dennis were duly impressed. We crossed the equator at night and common
sense dictated that we postpone the ceremony 'til daylight.
So, here's our crew in the middle fo the night and here's the chart as
we cross the equator (left).
To
be correct about the whole thing, we actually crossed the equator twice!
This shot of our chart plotter could be enlarged to 125% or even 150% to
get a better view.
First,
our crew had to endure being painted with engine oil! Secondly, they had
to show us proficiency with nautical knots and steering the boat.
They
were also served a meal of all the things they hated. On the menu were
beets and boiled eggs (not bad, I like those!). But then came dried fish
strips, mackerel on marshmallows and uncooked sweet potatoes.
They
passed all their tests and were awarded anchor necklaces (Dennis' is
choking him!) and then we were on our way to Singapore!

So, here's Dennis putting up our Singapore flag and on we go
toward the north.
We
had approached these strange lights in the water the night before. Not
knowing what was going on we turned the boat around and headed south so
as to approach during the day. These floating homes of fishermen were
what was lit up in the night. Even during the daylight we weren't sure
how far their anchor lines proceeded from their homes.
As
we paralleled the shipping lanes on the south heading west, we could see
the BIG ships passing on our starboard side. Each one of these guys
showed up as a triangle with AIS information (name, size, destination,
call number, etc.). Presumably, they can see us also, though I have
radioed ships that seem to be coming too close to be sure they see us.
After all, we're pretty small compared to them!
We
crossed the traffic separation scheme at about midway, just south of the
immigration area. Each entering ship and yacht needs to check in in this
area by anchoring and having your documents ready for the officials who
then come along side and very efficiently and with great courtesy
complete the procedure. The shot on the right shows a bunch of ships
anchored on the other side of an island. Our route to Keppel Bay was to
proceed through those ships, turn around the island and enter the Bay to
the Marina just on the other side of that bridge whose structure you see
jutting up on the right side of the photo right. We're standing on a
hill in Singapore looking south west in this shot.
You
see what a nice sunny day we had when we toured Singapore. Our guide was
great and (most importantly) his car was air conditioned!
The
huge building on the right is a casino (The Marina Bay Sands). It has a park on the top cross structure, with
trees growing and plants and grass just like a "normal" park. We saw
this in some large shopping malls also.
This
merlion (as in mermaid) is the symbol for Singapore. It's situated
across the water from the large building above. Nearby there are
restaurants and bars and a little walking promenade. The Singaporean
government has tried to provide citizens with entertainment and park
areas where they can go out and enjoy themselves. This is a bit of a
priority as housing is small and the island/country is small.
On
the right is a Hindu temple adorned with many, many bare breasted robust
women. We were quite surprised by this as the Muslim population makes a
point of being covered and modest. I was told that the Singaporean
government has decreed that apartment buildings must be integrated so
that ones neighbors are of different ethnic groups. Furthermore, that a
single ethnic group does NOT cluster in one area. Pretty interesting, I
thought. When talking to people we found that, indeed they had friends
and neighbors of different backgrounds. This was really a contrast to
what we saw in Penang, Malaysia where we were told that if a person of a
different ethnic group was in an accident on the street no one from
another group would help them. I'm sure this was not absolutely true,
but we did hear and feel ethnic tensions - especially against the
Chinese (who have lived in these areas for generations!). It seemed like
deja vu from Fiji, Polynesia and other Pacific islands where the Chinese
were the hard working shopkeepers and business owners and the
local population sat back watching and wondering what was going on. And
in the end developing envy that the Chinese had a nice lifestyle and
they (the locals) had what they always had, a leaf house and a taro
patch.
I
thought this mermaid sculpture was pretty neat and of, then thought
you'd like to see it. We enjoyed many beautiful sculptures along the
boulevards of Singapore. All along these tree lined avenues were wide
clean sidewalks were coffee houses, restaurants and bars. We'd see all
kinds of people walking along and enjoying the ambience: families,
school girls and boys, office workers, tourists as well as street
walkers. There were also kiosks that sold ice cream, drinks and snacks.
There were also places to sit down along the way. What we didn't miss
from similar sites in the US were the homeless and beggars.
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